Castiglion Fiorintino, Assisi and Perugia: Musings on Food, Saints and Holy Water Ways
Late February Travel

Since the last blog, we’ve been busy traveling (this seems to be a theme). After the February South Trip, we visited Castiglion Fiorintino for a conference. Kansas State University’s College of Architecture Planning and Design has a program in this tiny Tuscan hill town. Highlight: a four-course meal at a local winery and organic farm. I was so stuffed I could hardly move. Then they brought the third course and I knew I’d met my match. The vinsanto they gave us was like honey; smooth, rich and the color of amber. It was an amazing experience.

Feb. 29th we took a fieldtrip to Marco’s hometown and stomping ground—Assisi. (Saint Francis also has the same claim to fame). The Basilica of St. Francis has two levels; the lower level is dark and intimate. St. Francis’ tomb is simple and venerated; notwithstanding, he would probably think it a bit too fancy. I was moved by the man holding onto the grill behind the tomb and the pictures of loved ones place inside the grill next to the tomb. All at once, it was obvious how loved St. Francis still is.

The upper level of the Basilica is graced with Giotto’s frescoes (famous fresco artist of the 14th century) detailing St. Francis’ life. My favorite shows St. Francis preaching to the birds; you can picture him saying “now be good little birdies and be careful where you nest.”

Also in Assisi, the Church of St. Clair (Francis’ friend and follower of the saintly life) hosts barren walls (a bishop once had the frescoes removed to prevent the nuns from being led into sin) and the cross that spoke to St. Francis and jump started his life. Kat and I pilgrimaged down to the Church of Saint Mary of the Angels to view the small chapel where St. Francis died. All in all, it was a moving day and I was inspired to learn more about this saint and his abundant life. (I’d recommend you do the same).

Instead of returning to Orvieto after the fieldtrip, Kat and I headed on to Perugia, a large university town. Highlight: an aqueduct. (I have no idea why, but I love aqueducts! Alexis, I think it has something to do with Segovia. Nothing will compare to that acqueduct. Gotta love the Romans and their ingenuity…and world tyranny). Anyways, besides the ancient way of transporting water, I fell in love with Perugia (once I’d thawed myself from the wind chill). It’s a down to earth town with a beautiful historic center and a few tourists, but not too many. It felt like the city existed without tourists and that’s the way I like it. I enjoyed walking around at night and seeing Italians eating and drinking into the late night hours. The town felt alive.

Aside from the aqueduct and real Italians, the Umbrian National Art Gallery was hosting an art exhibit featuring Pintoriccio, a famous artist from Perugia. Yes, more Madonnas and child, but these were extraordinary; Pintoriccio’s use of color and line is detailed and eye-catching. After the special exhibition and the museum itself, Kat and I estimate that we saw no fewer than 100 Madonnas and child—in the course of 2 hours!