New Year, New Language

I arrived in Rome on New Year's Day 2008. Kat flew in on January 4th and we headed to Orvieto, nostra città (our town) for 4 months.

16 gennaio, 2008
I realized outside, while getting chilled by the winter rains here, that I have been in Italy for 2 weeks and a day. I can’t believe it. It feels like longer, but in a good way. I can’t believe how relaxed things have been since we arrived in Orvieto on the 5th.

It’s quiet here. Rush hour happens around 9/9:30 in the morning, as people head to work, run errands, and small cars try to make there way through impossibly narrow, cobblestone streets.

The streets (some streets, some pedestrian walkways, some both) look shiny in the rain. I walked over to the Duomo and it always surprises me; walking from our cozy apartment out into the busy pedestrian way, I take a left and a couple hundred feet—BOOM! There it is, that magnificent cathedral. It just comes out of nowhere. Gold gilded, mosaics created by 130 different mosaic-ers, little sculpted figures portraying all sorts of good and bad things that can happen to you on earth, in heaven, or in hell. Looking up I got rain in my eye. The Duomo sits in a relatively small plaza, so you have to crane your neck to take it in full. There it sits, and just climbs up to heaven. The sides of it are zebra-striped, slate and white stone in alternating lines. According to “The Other Boleyn Girl,” the Pope was once held hostage in the Duomo. I’m sure we will learn about this when we got to the attached museum; something on the to-do list.

I spent 3 nights and 4 days (only 3 of which I was coherent, thanks to jet-lag) in Rome. That, unlike Orvieto, was non-stop. It became comforting after the first day; otherwise I felt a little overwhelmed. I walked around the 3 days I was semi-awake and tried out my internal compass. I have realized this (again) is a skill I seem to forget about; I can pretty much find my way back or to a point without having to consult a map. I was not easily turned around in Rome. It’s been a little more challenging here in Orvieto. The city, according to a book my sister is reading, pretty much resembles what it was like in the 12th century. Winding roads, hard to find street signs, and unmarked buildings; it reminds me of Boston.

I did go into the Palazzo della Esponsizioni in Rome—the only museum I entered. I spent a long time in there, wrapped up in Mark Rothko, Stanley Kubrick and Gregory Crewdson. Essentially, I came to Rome to see an exhibit on American artists.

While walking Rome I saw a few things I recognized and a few things I didn’t. The fountains were beautiful, Vatican City was teeming with screaming youth and nuns, and the Colloseum hawks small plastic replicas and bratwurst for exorbant prices. It is quite a work, though. I walked up on it and I thought, “Oh, yeah! That’s the Colloseum. Looks like it does in movies. Wait—that’s the Colloseum! I’m in Rome! Oh my god….” And then back to watching my purse and trying to not get run over by Vespas.

Merry Christmas Colosseo (Rome)

Yes, there are lots of little cars and motos and you must be careful when crossing the street (thank you, Alexis, for this sage advice). I couldn’t help but take a few pictures of Smart Cars and the little FIAT 500. I hate to be so diminutive, but gosh the tiny cars sure are cute.

Shamefully, I ate McDonald’s for lunch one day in Rome. I think that meal cost me around $9. The exchange rate is horrible for Americans. Katrina and I are eating lots of pasta, homemade Tuscan bean dip (like hummus, only with cannolini beans and sans the tahini), fresh fruits and veggies (the ones we can afford, mostly the local ones) and homemade soups/lentils/bean things I can cook. The cheese and wine is amazing. Oh yes, the local Umbrian white wine is amazing, and affordable (about $2.50 or $3 a bottle). As is the Sangiovese wine (I was so happy to see that this wine which I have come to love in the U.S. is from Umbria. What luck!).

I have found the Fair Trade Store here in Orvieto and the prices are not too far off from supermarket prices. Kat and I have been enjoying Nicaraguan coffee from CECOCAFEN and I have been munching on CONACADO chocolate. (EE folks will know what all these acronyms mean. I am glad to see Italy is on board!).


Today Signorina gatta / Singore gatto stopped in for a visit. We met this kitty, a grey striped tabby, the other day while walking by the Duomo. S/he was very friendly then and apparently thought s/he’d stop by tonight to say hello. S/he stayed for about 20 minutes, exploring the apartment, looking for food, meowing a bit, and stretching out on our scratchy living room rug. We think the cat spoke some English because the second we said “Allright, we have to go to the frutteria, time to go!,” s/he fled under the couch. Smart gatta/o.




Italian is coming along for me. I can read it/hear it/comprehend it, but things tend to come out in Spanish. It’s slow going, but I feel more confident and I think I can learn this language. It’s all about the accent. (I don’t think Spanish had this much accent to it. It’s fun trying to pull it off, especially with my normal flat, Kansas English). I am learning to shut up and listen--to speak when spoken to. I feel, as I felt with Spanish, as if I am taking a trip back in time to my baby days when I gestured and grunted and relied on facial expressions. I am slowly learning to understand the Italian kids’ shows.

I try to update these often, but sometimes I am just too busy drinking espresso and enjoying la dolce vita. Check back when you like!

http://picasaweb.google.com/summerbclewis